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The Sunday letter

One story, one timetable change and one station worth a detour, every week.

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Summit section closed 12 to 14 MayBuses replace the trains for three days. What that means

  1. Journal
  2. Mountain lines
  3. The slow line over the pass

The slow line over the pass

Nine hours, forty tunnels and one dining car

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Line running

You are a third of the way throughabout 9 minutes left

Out of the valley before breakfast

The first train leaves at 06:12, and by the second tunnel the town is a row of lights below the window.

There is a faster way over, and almost nobody on this train has taken it by mistake. The timetable calls the service R 41; the people who work on it call it the long one. Our earlier piece has the fares.

What you see, in order

Sit on the left going up. Do not change sides at the summit, however tempting the other window looks.

  • The gorge, for the first forty minutes
  • The spiral, where the line crosses over itself
  • The summit lake, frozen until late May

The dining car

It joins at the third stop and leaves again before the border. Soup, bread, and a window of your own.

Before you go

When to travel

Late May to October. In winter the summit section is often replaced by a bus.

What it costs

The regional pass covers the whole line.

Where to sit

On the left going up, in the second carriage.

From the same line

Written and photographed by

Topics

Everything in the journal, sorted by the kind of journey

Mountain lines

64

Passes, spirals and the slow trains that still climb them.

Coast and ferries

51

Where the track ends at a quay and the ticket carries on.

Night trains

37

Sleepers, couchettes and how to book them.

Tickets and passes

29

Fares counted, passes tested, offices found.

City hops

88

Two towns and one good lunch, there and back in a day.

Stations

143

Buffets, waiting rooms, clocks and roofs.

Nothing on trams yet

The topic is open and nobody has written for it. Tell us which line to ride first.

Suggest a ride

Who writes what

  • MO
    Mara Oyelaran

    Mountain lines, stations

  • TR
    Tomas Reyl

    Coast, city hops, photographs

  • IV
    Ines Varga

    Night trains, tickets

  1. Journal
  2. Archive
  3. This year

Archive

412 stories since the first one, newest at the top

StoryTopicLineMinutesRepliesPublished
The slow line over the passMountain linesRunning14238 May
Three ferries in a day, and a bus we missedCoast and ferriesSummer only7115 May
A berth to the north, booked the old wayNight trainsRunning93129 April
The regional pass, counted properlyTickets and passesAll lines54622 April
Station buffets worth a longer changeCity hopsSix stations61815 April
A walk along the old quarry branchMountain linesClosed897 April
What to pack for a sleeperNight trainsRunning45231 March
TopicRunningSeasonalClosed

The Sunday letter

One story, one timetable change and one station, every week

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Questions

Does it cost anything?

No. The journal is paid for by its readers, and the letter is free.

Can I read old letters?

All of them are in the archive.